They just became more tightly twisted as I wound them onto the back beam. The bundles of 12 threads were no longer "in order" and wanted to spiral around each other. I tried "tensioning" the bundles a bit, to wind on the back beam (using a heddle), but it didn't work very well. Then, I tied the center of the warp to the back beam. How was I to get it off of the banister, now? Well, I ended up tying the warp in a ten places, including twice very close to the end away from the cross, cutting the end nearest the cross, and uncrossing the ends to pull them off of the banister. there's that small, incidental detail about tying the prepared warp at the crosses and keeping the ends in order. With two ends per circuit, 144 ends is three width repeats of the draft. I kept staring at the banister, thinking it had a beautiful section of almost parallel spindles. I wandered around the house, looking for likely warping tools. I avoided that step by pre-measuring a warp, winding it onto the back beam, and threading single ends into the holes/slots I wanted. Those are not very hard to do either, though it does slightly throw off the "three threads in every four slots/holes" ratio.īecause of the "three out of four" aspect, I found it difficult to decide how I wanted to count out my "direct warp" (with two-end loops in slots), and then later “move” the ends. If you refer to the Bullseye Twill draft, you'll see (represented by the black squares along the bottom of the draft) that there are sections in sequence of 1-2-3 or 3-2-1, but there are several "turns" of either 1-2-3-1-3-2-1 or 3-2-1-2-3. The threading for a regular 1-2-3 order in the shaft threading is pretty simple, as shown above. have three total ends for each four slots/holes in the heddle width). I solved that by going to a 12.5 epi heddle instead of 10 epi. The threading, as advised by Ask the Bellwether, is:Įasy-peasy, right? Well, if you want to end up (no pun intended) with one end in each slot or hole, to get the epi of the heddle (which I did, assuming a 10 epi heddle), then it is a bit of a challenge because the threading leaves one "spare" hole/slot out of every four. When I first started thinking about it, I had the thought, "Maybe I should pick another threading draft that has a continuous 1-2-3 repeat." But I didn't! The addition of "turns" just makes it even more different. Because I'm using the two heddles to represent the three shafts, even a continuous 1-2-3 threading order gives an "extra" hole/slot for every three threads (compared to plain weave threading of just alternating slot/hole/slot/hole). While a great deal of the threading is a straight 1-2-3 or 3-2-1, the "turns" are where it changes between the two. The trickiest part was deciding how I wanted to thread the heddles. I picked out a twill pattern on, a "point twill," which means it has "turns." The pattern name is "Bullseye Twill." I used the instructions at " Ask the Bellwether" that I pointed out in a previous post. There are many twill drafts available in 3-shaft patterns, which makes them readily adaptable to a rigid heddle loom such as I have, just by introducing a second heddle. They intrigue me, partly because they are what is used to make tartans. I have been anxious to try a "twill" pattern.
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